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SNOWMOBILE
COOLING MODIFICATION PROJECT
Our
first “project” comes from Russ Barkman of the Tumalo Langlauf Club in
Bend, Oregon. You can read all about TLC and the trails Russ and his
buddies groom on their website at
http://www.tumalolanglauf.com/.
We have discussed various
problems with engine overheating related to specific snowmobiles in a past
article (see “Selecting a
Snowmobile”). There are some snowmobiles, in particular those with
liquid cooling systems, that seem to have trouble staying cool at low
grooming speeds. But even the most popular fan cooled snowmobile used for
grooming, the Ski Doo Skandic, also will overheat when pushed far enough.
Russ's project involves the
following three parts: 1. Adding a pyrometer (engine temperature gauge) to
enable an operator to monitor engine temperature so that he can do
something BEFORE damage from overheating occurs. 2. Adding a supplemental
electric cooling fan attached to the grill opening under the hood to
supplement the engine driven fan. This fan is manually switched on when
the pyrometer indicates that the engine temperature is getting too high.
3. Enlarging the air intake opening in the hood for the Skandic's engine
driven fan.
The supplemental fan and the enlarged air intake should allow an operator
to do more work while keeping the engine temperature at a safe level. If
you are reluctant to make these sort of modifications to your brand new
machine, then at least consider the pyrometer. Look at it this way: Why
would anyone NOT spend around $200 for a gauge that could prevent an
operator from burning up the engine on a $7000 snowmobile? Once you can
monitor your engine temperature, you will be able to see the particular
conditions that may be causing your machine to work too hard and overheat.
Perhaps that information will enable you to change the way you groom, or
convince you to make the changes to the snowmobile that Russ has. In any
case, without the pyrometer the only way you really know for sure that the
engine has overheated is when it seizes up.
In discussions with Russ, I
asked him a few questions about his project:
Q - What experience have you
had with your Skandic overheating prior to the modification and how does
it work now? Any comparison to other snowmobiles? In what kinds of
conditions do you experience the overheating - ambient temp, snow
conditions, terrain?
A - Prior to making these
changes we experienced two engine seizures, in both cases the temperature
was 40 plus. The first time the operator was pulling the tracksetter in
fairly soft snow on a steep uphill. The second time I was pulling our
roller over fairly gentle terrain and at that time there was about four
inches of new snow over older hardpack. We have made some changes in
our grooming procedure. We never start grooming if the temperature is over
40. The problem is that often the temp goes up after we start so
it's necessary to monitor ambient temps. We have also been stopping the
machine every hour or so for one of the aforementioned cool downs. We have
also switched to 100% synthetic oil. These modifications and changes are
not the cure-all for overheating the engine but should help reduce the
risk.
Q - Was the pyrometer a
stock dealer item specifically for the Skandic, or was it an aftermarket
product? Any idea which model/brand so that if someone walked into a
dealer they could ask for the same one?
A - The pyrometer is an
after market product. I don't know the name. It was one of several
in the dealer's parts catalog. They are commonly used by snowmobile
racers. Because of the work load we put on these machines, the mechanic
says they need some of the same modifications and the same treatment that
racing machines get, thus the cooling modifications, synthetic oil, and
the after use cool down. The after use cool down is very similar to the
process of letting your diesel engine run for a few minutes after
prolonged use to cool the turbocharger cooling oil to prolong the life of
the turbo bearings.
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This is the pyrometer as it is mounted in
the instrument panel. The pyrometer measures the exhaust gas temp.
at the exhaust manifold exit. There is a needle for each cylinder.
Temperatures should not exceed 1200 degrees to be safe. The left
cylinder which is the farther from stock fan tends to run a little
hotter then the right. Also included in this picture is the toggle
switch that controls the added aux. fan. Soon to be added is a small
red light that will light when the fan is on. Because the fan is
wired directly to the battery it must turned off manually after the
engine is shut down to prevent battery drain. |
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This
is a close-up of the fasteners used to mount the fan. The bolts,
nuts, and washers are 1/4 inch. You will also need to use 1 inch
plastic spacers so the fan will clear the intake wire mesh.
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This
is the fan as it is installed. When the fan is mounted, center it
over the back of the front air intake on the cowl. Hook the plus
wire directly to the battery for the best source of power. The fan I
used is a 9 inch engine cooling fan from JC WHITNEY 1-800-529-4486
{catalog part number 38KS301N}. This particular fan pulls the air
which is needed in this installation. The cost of the fan is $59.95
plus shipping. The fan comes with a switch but you'll need some
extra wire. |
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This
picture shows a modification to the air intake opening for the
regular engine cooling fan. Using an electric saber saw cut
approximately 3 inches from the rear of the opening. Leave about an
inch of material between this opening and the next one. You will
have to remove the wire mesh from the inside of the cowl before
making this modification. Increasing the size of this intake allows
more air to reach the engine fan. |
The installation of the fan
and other modifications took approximately 2 hours. The total cost was
around $280.00 which includes the dealer installed pyrometer. |